Happy Thanksgiving to all –
We can thank Sarah Josepha Hale, the editor of Ladies Magazine and Godey’s Lady’s Book, who carried on a 36-year campaign in favor of making Thanksgiving a national holiday. She relentlessly wrote articles, provided recipes, and contacted lawmakers, politicians, and ordinary citizens on behalf of Thanksgiving. Finally, on October 3, 1863, President Abraham Lincoln declared the day a national holiday, a declaration which was, in large measure, a response to the devastation and division of the Civil War. Lincoln perceived Thanksgiving as a way to pull the country together and begin a healing process.
A day of prayer and fasting had been in the works prior to Lincoln's declaration. Most presidents before Lincoln had held festivals and festivities, some in April and June (with the exception of Thomas Jefferson who felt that this sort of malarkey was a violation of the separation of church and state).
The actual idea of a meal and prayer harkened back to the inept Pilgrims of the Massachusetts Bay Colony, who found that they were fundamentally unprepared for life in a cold climate and completely unprepared to grow food or live in the wilderness. Many of them died. After a wretched winter, Miles Standish arrived in the knick of time with supplies and the good news that a more substantial Dutch supply ship was on its way. It also rained, relieving a drought. Pretty much right then and there, June 30, 1623, the colonists prayed in gratitude for their good fortune and food. This was the origin of the holiday.
As Thanksgiving rose in popularity during the 1800’s, so did the turkey as the main dish, particularly domestic turkeys. Wild turkeys were prevalent but they required hunting, which wasn’t an option for everyone. Besides being huge, these birds are also fast and could outwit many hunters. As a Thanksgiving culinary option, wild turkey is tough and gamey. Domestic turkeys, on the other hand, are more tender and, depending on what they get fed, can be quite good.
As an aside, I have raised turkeys. They would arrive at the post office as chicks and be ensconced in the mudroom until they got big enough to be moved to the barn. Even as tiny birds they learn to fly and hop around. They would park on the washer dryer and hold forth in their little turkey voices as I tried to work around them. It was quite the experience, and I developed an appreciation for these guys.
As a bird, they have a sense of humor and are very curious. I would pick up the kids from school and the turkeys in the barn would hear the car coming up the road. They would dash out to the pen to see us, gobbling and marching around. My daughter Meghan could do the best turkey imitation. On one occasion we had a tom and a hen that we simply could not bring ourselves to eat. They grew to weigh over 40 pounds each.
The 1920's, our decade of choice, saw the rise of Thanksgiving public celebrations, including the first ever Macy’s Parade in 1924. Most of the employees at the time were European immigrants and wanted to celebrate their new-found country in ways that were familiar to them. The parade included professional bands, zoo animals, floats, and folks dressed as clowns, cowboys, knights, and sheiks. Santa arrived on the balcony of the flag ship store on 34th Street and was crowned King of the Kiddies. It is estimated that 250,000 people watched this first parade and it has been a Thanksgiving staple ever since.
So what did families eat in the 1920's? According to The Groaning Board, the basis of the dinner hasn’t changed much, but there are some interesting additions. Parched Corn, a nod to native peoples, is eaten as an appetizer and consists of corn (multiple varieties), butter, and salt. The corn is cooked until it is soft and the more varieties the better as each one has a different flavor.
Another interesting addition is a persimmon pudding. Persimmons are a curious fruit; one type is native to the U.S. Northeast but this fruit isn’t the one we commonly think of as a persimmon—that is the Asian Persimmon, introduced from Japan about 100 years ago. This 20s pudding requires a quart of persimmons and sweet milk, along with sugar, flour, and assorted fall seasonings. It bakes for about an hour.
What about pies? Many families serve several these days. In the 1920s, pumpkin pie, a common dessert, came with only a few recipes. The assumption was that it would be made from a fresh pumpkin, cooked and seeded, that preferably you grew in your garden. In the 20’s, pie pumpkins or small sweet pumpkins were popular and easy to grow. There were more recipes for the crust than the filling as most assumed that there was a family recipe to follow.
On a final and personal note, Thanksgiving is a favorite of mine as it represents community, food, and a measure of gratitude. In our family, we have always welcomed anyone who wanted to come and experience this uniquely American holiday. Our largest group was 22 with nine languages represented. It was a blast.
As we head into the holiday season, I am particularly aware that many amongst us are not having such a great time. Let us all be gentle with each other and find a moment of grace amongst the uproar of the world. Be well, all, and thank you, Sarah, for this most American of holidays.
-Bird Jones
